RETURN FROM MEXICO 2009
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Apologies to those of you who are also
on my Travel List. You received much of this report, except for a couple
of paragraphs about Steinbeck. I’m writing after coming home this past Wednesday
May 6.
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Against all advice, especially from
U.S. travel authorities, we kept faith with our deposits and took flights
to our favorite “hotel” at Punta Colorada located at Baja California del Sur,
Mexico. That’s 1,000 miles from where known shipments of drugs cross into
the U.S. and heavy guns are sold to drug lords in Mexico, and pretty much
out of radio range for news in English.
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It is also heavily impacted by news
of Swine Flu although nobody has heard a cough or sneeze except from allergy-prone
Americans. We saw airport people wearing masks when we flew into Cabo and
some as we left. (“We” includes Ken and Marilyn Salter who got us into this
habit a dozen years ago).
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We had to fill out a health report and
have a temp scan before being allowed to exit. Those were the last masks
we saw, even at LA, except for a young couple dutifully wearing masks (as
instructed we presume) by worried parents.
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The flu warnings really impacted a marginal
economy that depends heavily on American tourists who canceled in droves.
Flights were light. Our “hotel” (really a modest fishing oriented motel)
had few guests and very few going out in the numerous boats kept at anchor.
One fly-fish guide had all of his reservations cancel. These were reservations
made a year ago.
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So we had a quiet time on the beaches,
with perfect weather and water for swimming each day. Plenty of siesta time
for naps and reading before more walking and swimming…and eating the specially
prepared meals. Jean didn’t gain anything because she walked the most. I
only gained 5 pounds from this local menu. When meals are included in the
price of your room what can you do?
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After telling people over and over what
we do, we are still asked, “but what did you do?” We don’t need to shop so
don’t need to ride the bumpy, dusty road to a nearby village community. There
is no TV, except in the bar. It is usually tuned to soccer with Spanish commentators.
Night life is limited to the bar, but there are few people there after our
late dinner hour. Something about sunny days, outdoor living, warm evenings
and starry nights invites an early bed-time. If one is still awake, there
is light to read by. Who wants “virtual reality” when you have the real thing?
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We would not have been surprised to
see health monitoring on arrival in LA. We didn’t fill out any health
forms, didn’t have our temperature scanned, didn’t see anyone with masks.
Our planes home were full and on time (except for a slight passenger/luggage
glitch in LA). That slight delay, plus the airline aim to please, allowed
a special complimentary ration of libations of choice.
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We could see the sunset wind-driven
fire and smoke rising out of the Santa Barbara hills as our plane lifted
out of the LA basin. On arriving home we would see more news about the fire
than about swine flu. Is that good?
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I always read John Steinbeck’s Nobel
Prize winning “Log From the Sea of Cortez” during our times in Baja.
I read it for perspective. I read it to remind myself that this beach has
an unseen life. Beneath the gentle surging sea is a battle field. Each living
creature has two basic drives, says Steinbeck – to survive and to procreate.
Our presence is unusual. The ever-hovering buzzards remind us of how it really
is.
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He doesn’t allow us to think that we
can be excused from participation in the web of life. We are part of a species
that is fighting extinction as is every other. He says, however, that even
those who have dropped the “leading-strings of a Sunday School deity” are
still under unconscious thinking that there is a plan. Steinbeck forces us
to include ourselves as participants in the universe.
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There was champagne in the refrigerator,
left over from Easter, that allowed us to toast a privileged moment in our
life journey and to remember a few of the special moments of sunrises and
sunsets in the land that is America’s largest trading partner and which buys
more of Oregon’s Christmas trees than anyone. I will try to think of that
when Mexicans come north to harvest the Christmas trees across our road.
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Lots for us to do before moving on to
Puget Sound. A blue sheet to write. A Thursday Night Moment to do. And memories
of white sand, blue water and siestas.
─ Art Morgan, May 9, 2009
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